Here’s my SAI brush settings, and a speed-painting of Mercury for brush-use examples.
edit: the blurred out edge effect is done like this:
Hope it helps some people who were wondering how i painted from a blob instead of with a line art or sketch first. Basically I’m sketching as I’m painting.
This is a technique for when you want to focus on the whole picture before zooming in on the details first. It helps if you’re someone who finds themselves concentrating too much on one area of a drawing only to zoom out and find that perfectly drawn mouth doesn’t exactly match up to the rest of the features. It also helps with wanting to put the focus on a certain area of a painting and keeping everything else soft. You can put indicators of where you want certain features to go, but try not to go too much into detail all at once in the beginning; keep things loose and fast and tighten up later for specific areas.
Hmm, I don’t know if you have the resources to do this, but my posing and flow in my drawings greatly improved when I started going to life-drawing in college. And it’s not those 3 hour life-drawing sessions either. Those were 30 seconds, 1 minute, 3minute and 5minute poses, so drawing life-drawing quickly helps your short-hand, which helps your posing flow better. I dunno if you know what shorthand is but I’m going to explain it anyways - it’s simply when your hand understands the quickest way to draw a certain part of the body or posing.
So for example if I take a stock from SenshiStock's picture here, pretend i'm doing a life-drawing, and draw a very quick shorthand version of it, it'd be something like this:
Okay a few things I should note here: I had no reference for the skeleton or muscle so it may not be completely correct, but the basics are down…hopefully. lol. Also, i forgot to red-mark the hip bones in the skeleton drawing.
But yes, sorry, this is probably the oldest advice ever, but from my experience, the ease of drawing poses came from understanding anatomy more and allowing me to shorthand with ease and hitting all the more important parts when sketching quickly, and sketching quicker allowed for more flow. Hopefully this will help you with using these techniques you learn from anatomy better. (Sorry, these sketches were done in less than 5 minutes so they’re a little messy xD;;)
ps. sorry for the lack of muscles on the other leg, I’m a little out of time @_@;. I’m just gonna post this publicly, hope you don’t mind~ :). Hope this helps somewhat~! And this is just my way of doing things, it may not apply for everyone~ ^^;
So waysofgettinghome suggested a site for quick pose-changing-resources:
I don’t know if you’e seen this website artists.pixelovely.com but they have this great resource that automatically moves on to the next figure in whatever time you set. I found it super helpful.
I thought it was better to let everyone know here rather than reply it publicly in another ask, since these are related :).
Skull and pelvis references. I actually also did a set of shoulder blade and a few vertebral (thoracic, cervical, and lumbar), but they…didn’t look as cool, hahaha;;.
These were still-life set and done with 2H, 2B, and 4B pencils and model life-sized skull and pelvis. (I got a really high mark on these :D~~). Pelvis is actually more important and harder to do than skulls, actually. To show the perspective and really understand the shape of the pelvis helped my anatomy drawing.
Process shots of my Little Mermaid and the Witch drawing.
As requested by quite a few folks. All done in watercolor. I like to put tape around my watercolors before I start so it leaves a nice straight edge. unfortunately I’m not using the right tape, since actual good watercolor tape is those green ones you see in art stores, so these ones leave a bit of a jagged edge -_-;. I have a little commentary going on when you click in so it might act like a guide :). hope that helps~!
Since I started watercolouring again for my daily sketches, I’ve gotten a lot of asks/dA notes on if I could give a tutorial on watercolouring and also more specific questions that overlapped each other, so I decided to do a semi guide/tips/answering thing.
I actually started watercolouring before I went into digital medium, so I have a bit of personal experience, but I am essentially self-taught when it comes to watercolouring since there weren’t a lot of watercolour tutorials online back then to begin with, so I cannot promise that these are the absolute correct way of doing things.
Hope it helps anyways :)
The whole film took me altogether about 5 grueling months (usually 10-12hours a day) to do. I often felt my butt was going to grow into the chair I usually sat at.
Please note that this was simply my way of doing my film to achieve the soft-shaded style I wanted; there are many other ways of doing this and some are a lot faster with different results~! :)
This tut differs a bit from my dA version, because tumblr lets me put the combination of gifs and jpegs :D.
Here’s a book that will really help you start animating:
here’s some books that are good for composition, storytelling and colours:
I hope these helped
I ask that no one removes the credit or source for this tutorial/guide please. thanks :)
gif of the painting process:
Sorry this was so darn long D:. tried to make it as short as possible. I’ve been asked quite a few times on how I paint before now, and I’ve never made an actual tutorial until now. Hope this helps clear some stuff up :).
111 feet sketches/references to challenge myself. Mostly to cure myself of a condition called i-suck-at-drawing-feet.
I think I got better near the end, no? :D
you can also use as references? xD;
raeistic said: THANK YOU for not putting a pixel size + DPI number together. It’s INCHES + DPI. Shows you know what you’re talking about ;D
You know what, when I first saw this comment, I thought to myself, “….isn’t it how it is anyways? I mean, why would you put in “dots per inch” without the inch? xD;”
but just now, i read a whole bunch of comments on a blog where someone asked about canvas sizes, and SO MANY people were replying with things such as, “4000x4000 at 300 dpi” or “2000x2000 at 200dpi”.
and I guess not everyone quite understands what dpi’s really used for xD.
DPI is actually used for printing purposes. It shows the printer how much pixels to print per inch, literally. A common printer (at home or even at a lot of printing stores) at best prints at 150dpi most of the time actually; there are some super duper great printers that can print REALLY fine that can go up to ….apparently a LOT more #dpi, so that’s why everyone usually suggests saving your project at 300dpi, to satisfy the finest-pixel-abled printer, because anything above that is a little overkilling it.
so say I have a canvas at 5400 x 3600px, it literally means that I have a canvas that can be printed on a 18 x 12 inch paper at 300 dpi. If I have a 5400 x 3600px canvas at 200dpi, that pixels of the canvas don’t change, but the inches on the physical paper can change to 27x18 inches when it comes to printing it. The canvas pixels aren’t going to change just because you have it at 200dpi, so putting 200dpi, 300dpi or even 800dpi, it isn’t going to make a difference digital canvas-wise.
Either put down how big it is in pixels (because you don’t REALLY need the 300dpi if you’re not printing it out), or if you have an intention of printing it out, do it in inches (or cm, if that’s what you’re used to) with a dpi attached.
Even photoshop makes it clear - The pixels are in the “Pixel-dimention” section, and the inches/cm/mm/etc and dpi is under the “Document-size” section.
I hope I made sense and cleared up some misconceptions about dpi and canvas sizes :). ….and i hope i didn’t make a mistake here hahaha;;;.
sorry if i sounded like a know-it-all v_v;; i guess the comments pet-peeved me a little D;~…
damn, i wrote a lot; sorry, bad habit D:~!